Can Bondic® be handled by children?
There is no risk of skin sticking uncontrollably and dangerously. Even so, we recommend you only let children over 12-13 years handle Bondic®.
Can Bondic® harden in places with no light?
No, Bondic® can only harden when exposed to light of a specific wavelength. If bonding two parts together where the LED light cannot reach, one of the two bonded parts has to be translucent in order for the light to reach through to the Bondic® formula.
Can I seal containers with Bondic™ (cracks, fissures)?
Yes, Bondic® is suitable for sealing all kinds of materials. You have to work in layers and make sure that the first layer goes inside the crack or hole to get a perfect lining. More layers will secure the site and lead to a sustainable repair.
Can I modify Bondic® constructions by adding more material (Bondic®) to them later?
Yes, applying a fresh coat of Bondic® on an already hardened coat of Bondic® does not pose a problem. Go ahead and use as much as you want, whenever you want.
Can I process Bondic® after it hardens (milling, polishing, varnishing)?
Yes, Bondic® can be worked on subsequently using all conventional methods. You can give the Bondic® surface any desired structure and carry on with a priming coat followed by perfect varnishing or paint work.
What is the temperature range of Bondic®?
Bondic® has a temperature range of -40 °C to 150 °C. Anything outside of this range will cause the Bondic® material to react undesirably.
Can I connect parts with Bondic® with very small contact surfaces?
Yes, Bondic® is excellent for joints with extremely small contact surfaces in almost all materials. Even “point to point” fixing without applying the slightest pressure is possible (refer to the Bondic® video). Apply enough layers to ensure a sufficient stability depending on your expectations and construction. To improve stability and pull-off force, you could make undercuts like little holes, scratches or cuts on both ends of the parts. Bondic® goes in and after curing it works like a super strong VELCRO. Everything is 100% under your control!
Can I sheath (cover) objects applied with Bondic® to boost stability?
Yes, the option of layering material renders overlapping and sheathing possible. This radically enhances firmness and stability; in some cases it even enables it in the first place.
Can I dye Bondic® before curing?
Yes, BONDIC® liquid can be dyed by acrylic color micro particles (color powder). Please use a toothpick and load just the tip with color powder and mix it with a drop of Bondic®. You can control the intensity by the dose of powder. Please note that inking causes a longer curing time depending on the color. Furthermore it’s recommended to reduce the thickness of each layer.
How can Bondic® be removed from smooth surfaces?
We recommend the use of scrapers. Giving the Bondic® a short, sharp shove from the side dislodges it cleanly from the base. Any remnants left behind can be easily removed with conventional cleaners.
Can I use Bondic® as a insulating material?
Yes, Bondic® is a perfect insulating material on low voltage circuits only. Please note that Bondic® is not a replacement for solder! Working on high voltage current must be executed by experts only!
Can I use Bondic® on damp surfaces or under water?
Yes, as long as the surface is just wet and not greasy you can achieve a full setting and an adhesion depending on the surface structure. E.g. you can attach objects on the inner side of a water filled jar or even an aquarium.
Can I use Bondic® to fix my fingernails?
Yes, you can fix your fingernails by applying Bondic® in layers on the damaged nail. Work with a certain surplus and use a file to give it the desired shape. Polishing and varnishing is possible also. Please note that Bondic® gets warm during the curing process. Tip: harden Bondic® on your nails by flashing the LED (on-off-on-off…) in order to extend the set.
What happens to Bondic® left outdoors?
Bondic® is resistant against sunlight after hardening. Depending on the environmental conditions Bondic® could change color to slight yellow.
Can I use Bondic® for connecting objects, which are relative to one another in motion after repair?
Yes, you can up to a certain limit of course. Bondic® maintains certain flexibility after getting set. Depending on your construction a test is required and recommended firstly.
What is the difference between Bondic® and UV Glue?
Glue in principle is an adhesive that allows two fractured parts that fit together perfectly to stick together and become one. However, glue doesn’t replace missing pieces, nor does it provide 3D properties. Glue also cures when exposed to air or in this case, UV light and generally requires pressure between two parts to work. Bondic® has adhesive properties but it is essentially plastic in a liquid format, you don't need perfectly fitting parts for it to work and you can actually fabricate a missing part out of thin air so to speak so it is truly a different category.
What chemically happens to the liquid in Bondic® when it's exposed to the UV light?
Bondic® is basically liquid molecules or “pre-plastic” in liquid format that when exposed to our UV light are allowed to connect and become the hard plastic you know and depend on in everyday life. They are attracted to each other but separated by the liquid but UV light suddenly breaks down the part of the liquid that kept them separate and the molecules do what they want to naturally do which is align and organize themselves. When that happens its plastic. Normally its down with heat and injection molded! Here it’s done with light. The movement of them getting organized actually creates a second of heat in the Bondic®. Sometimes you can see a wisp of steam or smoke if you make a large drop of it. That’s the heat making the liquid evaporate!
How is Bondic® Different than other glues or UV cured adhesives?
Glue in principle is an adhesive that allows two fractured parts that fit together perfectly to stick together and become one. However, glue doesn’t replace missing pieces, nor does it provide 3D properties. Glue also cures when exposed to air or in the case you mentioned, UV light and generally requires pressure between two parts to work. Bondic® has adhesive properties but it is essentially plastic in a liquid format, you don't need perfectly fitting parts for it to work and you can actually fabricate a missing part out of thin air so to speak so it is truly a different category.
What is the shelf life of Bondic® in an unopened unit ?
The shelf life of an unopened unit is definitely a year (at room temperature) but we are experiencing much longer times. The reason for the black tube and metal box is to protect it from UV light. But it’s not like typical glues that cure when exposed to air.
What is the shelf life of the welder / substance in an opened unit?
Same as above! Once you put on the lid it is basically sealed, once its back in the Bondic® tin its protected again.
Is there a list of the substances that Bondic® will and will not bond with ?
Remember that Bondic® is not a bonding agent in the sense that we have all come to know and expect from adhesives. It’s basically a portable plastic 3D free hand printer. Different concept. You can use it to connect things that have smooth surfaces but it’s a new category, a new tool and new concept!
How much use can I get out of one Bondic® tube?
It depends on which version you purchased but if you have the 4g version you can expect about 20 drops per ml so 80 blobs of material. So it’s basically depends on the nature of the repair! It can be dozens of iPhone cables and widgets and gadgets repaired or it can be some thousand-dollar lifesaver with one or two tubes. It all depends.
Is Bondic® dishwasher friendly?
Yes, after the Bondic® material has 100% cured it is completely waterproof and safe to put into the dishwasher. Just ensure the bond is strong enough to withstand the pressure of the dishwasher.
Can Bondic® be wiped off surfaces while still in liquid form?
Yes Bondic® can be wiped off surfaces that are not absorbent, we recommend using organic solvents to make the process easier.
What is the LED life expectancy and why should I replace the whole thing instead of just the batteries?
Life of the battery is similar to that of your garage door opener or any battery powered flashlight. You can expect to get roughly 8 hours of total use from the LED light and you are only using it for 4 seconds at a time! You could replace the battery but the automated production of these items doesn’t make it friendly to do so.
Is Bondic® safe to use as a solder joint for electronic circuit boards? Or is Bondic® a conductive plastic?
Bondic® can be used on low volt low amperage circuits. Under 24 V and under 1 Amp. It’s a plastic that has many uses but as you would expect there are thousands of variations for plastic formulas and dedicated ones for electronics.
If applied to smooth surfaces it seems to come off in one piece or chipped off easily but what if the surface is rough?
The rougher the surface the better! Bondic® isn’t a glue, it has some adhesive properties but it sticks to smooth areas using a lot of surface tension rather than stickiness. If you can let the liquid Bondic® get into cracks and crevices then it will hold incredibly well.
Have you by any chance had the product ODDY tested?
Great question, great application. No it hasn’t been ODDY tested. For those of you who don’t know what that is; the ODDY test is a procedure created at the British Museum by conservation scientist Andrew in order to test materials for safety in and around art objects
Can Bondic® bond dissimilar materials. Specifically high impact polystyrene and sand paper?
It will work great in and on sandpaper and if you create some rough areas on the polystyrene that will allow the Bondic® to grip and you can get the LED UV light onto both, your good to go.
How well does Bondic® work PVC tubing, Kevlar, or polypropylene?
Bondic® works very well PVC tubing, Kevlar, and polypropylene, you just need to follow our principles. The principle of sealing or attaching things with Bondic® is based on how the surface is prepared and generally you want to make a ring around the item to create strength. Sometimes you even drill holes in both surfaces to create extra strength.
Does the acetone removing the adsorbed water molecules on the surface hampers the hardening like it does for cyanoacrylates? i.e. does surface adsorbed water play a role or not in the hardening process?
No, hardening is 100% determined by the UV light. If there is a water molecule in the way it will harden around that molecule.
Is there a recommended solvent for removing surface oiliness without weakening the bond itself?
You can use a dollar store alcohol wipe but remember it could be a sign that your LED is getting weak!
What is the shelf life of Bondic®?
At room temperature it will last a least a year but we have tubes that have been stored since the beginning of the invention that are still working fine after more than 3 years in the vault of inventions back at the office!
Can this be used to join two poly tarps together?
I would say no, what you are asking is essentially a job for traditional glue that is formulated for that type of plastic. Bondic® isn’t a glue.
What wavelength does the fluid cure at?
Thanks for asking but sometimes the chef doesn’t tell you the secrets of their recipes!
Can the cured material sustain thermal stressing between 0°C and 100°C over multiple cycles?
Yes, it sounds like that’s within the working range. We are not sure if Bondic® is being used to go to the moon but the concern is the rate of the change. Remember that it’s plastic and can be susceptible to being broken down over time like any other type of plastic in the same conditions.
Is your product currently used in any industrial/manufacturing applications?
You will generally find it in industrial applications and manufacturing but under the hood so to speak, not on the surface.
Why is my kit missing the long orange applicator, cleaning cloth and file (as shown in all the videos)?
There are hundreds of videos and many different versions of Bondic® kits, Starter, Pro, Expert etc. You might have purchased the Starter kit but viewed videos from the other postings and people around the world.
Does Bondic® have an MSDS sheet I can view?
Our MSDS can be found at the following link:
I would like to know where Bondic® is from. Are you producing Bondic® in the USA?
Yes, we produce the Bondic® fluid in the USA, different components and parts are made in different countries but for each market we like to keep as much of the production and content so that it’s as local as possible.
Can I use Bondic® to repair a cracked electric piano key hammers?
If you are replacing plastic and want it to bond to another plastic make sure that the original surface is rough and that the Bondic® can get into the cracks and crevices so that you have more surface areas and under cuts etc.
Will the Bondic® product become a health hazard being in contact with food and can it take the heat of boiling water?
No, Bondic® is not an FDA approved food grade plastic.
Can Bondic® be use to repair crack in a plastic hopper (tub) on wheelbarrow?
Yes, but ensure you roughen up the surface and use it on both sides of the hopper.
Can Bondic® repair a rip in a polyethylene tarp and can it be used to join 2 tarps together?
No, it’s best to use a dedicated glue for that kind of repair. Bondic® isn’t a glue!
I have an old Pewter spoon that has broken near the bowl of the spoon. Will Bondic® work for repairing it?
Bondic® might work if you overlap it both sides, but you will see the lump of plastic. There might be other solutions out there that are better suited to work with a metal repair like that!
I am wondering if the actual liquid used in your product is available in larger amounts?
Please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org, We sell it in larger volumes for commercial and industrial applications.
Would this product be an acceptable replacement for shrink tubing or electrical tape in 12V applications?
If the amperage is lower than 1Amp it should be fine as long as you make it thick enough. Many people have used it to waterproof toys and wheelchair electronics, etc. but always something low in Voltage and Amperage.
When talking about a workable degree of hardness, does this mean that the material was exposed to the curing light for a short period of time and remains partially cured? Would this cause a problem with the integrity of the bond?
Ideally you should use thin layers and cure 100% before continuing to add material. If it’s not cured 100% it won’t bond or hold properly.